Throttle Management!
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Imdbombboarder
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2006 8:36 pm
- Location: Eugene, Oregon
- Contact:
Throttle Management!
Aight guys im having some throttle problems here. Instead of being really smooth, i will like if i start to pull away from the boss, i gun the throttle, then cut it, this really screws me up and gets me all over the place. How big should my throttle movements be? I have been practicing it for awhile, but still can't really get my problem fixed. Its hard for me just to be smooth, because when im smooth the adjustments are drastic enough... What are some good training tips, and things to do to really get throttle management down?
Search through some of the threads in the practice range forum. This has been discussed before, but in a nutshell:
If you have to chop, then chop. But anticipation is everything, you need to be all over that throttle up again before you actually see any real results (drift back) on the screen if you do as drastic of a throttle input as you're describing. You're also correct about being smooth. I'd change that to say, being more gentle. Cause smooth doesn't really matter, as in being slow on the throttle, range or the amount of motion on the throttle does! A jet enigine doesn't respond at the rate your hand moves, but your hand dictates the power range you're commanding the engine to give you so to speak. Keep in mind to continuously feather the throttle up and down, you will never, ever, never, ever have your left hand still while in formation (continuously making corrections, as you do with your stick). The sight picture could be locked in and don't move for lengthy periods of time, but during that same timeframe your throttle hand would be making movements back and forth with a lot of anticipation built into it in the ballpark range of 1-inch (Cougar) or 10% N1 (rpm). Also, as previously talked about (in this forum), keep in mind that more drastic inputs translates to flying a greater distance from Lead (used for rejoins, outer wing positions, or spread/route formation) while close formation means small feather motions (diamond formation). The key lies in flying what you see (keeping the sight picture static) and letting your hand do whatever it takes to stay there, while consciously minimizing the up/down motion (swing) of the throttle. If you find yourself having to power up, then back in huge amounts over and over, then you definitely need to make an effort to bring that feather motion down to where it's within the range mentioned above. For PIR (Pass in Review), which is the tightest formation we fly, I try to stay within 2-4% on the N1 as a guesstimation of what I use. I honestly couldn't tell you the numbers, but I know it's really small. Take a look at your tachometer next time you fly and find out what those numbers mean in terms of physical throttle movement. Also, muscle memory helps as we stay within 80-95% power most of the time, so I can instinctively tell you with my eyes closed what power setting we're flying by the position of my left hand. That is another cue that helps you in establishing the mid-point of your throttle movements. It comes with experience!
Hope that helps!
LD
If you have to chop, then chop. But anticipation is everything, you need to be all over that throttle up again before you actually see any real results (drift back) on the screen if you do as drastic of a throttle input as you're describing. You're also correct about being smooth. I'd change that to say, being more gentle. Cause smooth doesn't really matter, as in being slow on the throttle, range or the amount of motion on the throttle does! A jet enigine doesn't respond at the rate your hand moves, but your hand dictates the power range you're commanding the engine to give you so to speak. Keep in mind to continuously feather the throttle up and down, you will never, ever, never, ever have your left hand still while in formation (continuously making corrections, as you do with your stick). The sight picture could be locked in and don't move for lengthy periods of time, but during that same timeframe your throttle hand would be making movements back and forth with a lot of anticipation built into it in the ballpark range of 1-inch (Cougar) or 10% N1 (rpm). Also, as previously talked about (in this forum), keep in mind that more drastic inputs translates to flying a greater distance from Lead (used for rejoins, outer wing positions, or spread/route formation) while close formation means small feather motions (diamond formation). The key lies in flying what you see (keeping the sight picture static) and letting your hand do whatever it takes to stay there, while consciously minimizing the up/down motion (swing) of the throttle. If you find yourself having to power up, then back in huge amounts over and over, then you definitely need to make an effort to bring that feather motion down to where it's within the range mentioned above. For PIR (Pass in Review), which is the tightest formation we fly, I try to stay within 2-4% on the N1 as a guesstimation of what I use. I honestly couldn't tell you the numbers, but I know it's really small. Take a look at your tachometer next time you fly and find out what those numbers mean in terms of physical throttle movement. Also, muscle memory helps as we stay within 80-95% power most of the time, so I can instinctively tell you with my eyes closed what power setting we're flying by the position of my left hand. That is another cue that helps you in establishing the mid-point of your throttle movements. It comes with experience!
Hope that helps!
LD
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Imdbombboarder
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Sat Feb 04, 2006 8:36 pm
- Location: Eugene, Oregon
- Contact:
Thanks man, that helps alot. I believe really part of my problem is that i get in a hurry. Like ill be .5 out from the boss, and want to close in fast, so ill gun the throttle to 60 plus kts, the slow down as i get real closed, but i see ill start to move forward a bit, and i cut the throttle which i know is bad. I am using that one guys formation mod with the kc10, and it holds about 420kts. Faster then you guys fly, but its what im stuck with for now.
Ill try the tachomiter thing. My joystick is crap, lol i have a Saitek s290 pro. I mean its ok, but i am going to invest in alot better joystick when i can. I just have to try to bite my lip with this one, but. Their are markings on the throttle, so im trying to get the %s down.
Ill try the tachomiter thing. My joystick is crap, lol i have a Saitek s290 pro. I mean its ok, but i am going to invest in alot better joystick when i can. I just have to try to bite my lip with this one, but. Their are markings on the throttle, so im trying to get the %s down.
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JaBog32_Dirty
- Virtual Thunderbird Alumnus
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sun May 15, 2005 6:45 am
- Location: Koblenz, Germany
- Contact:
Hi I'm "that guy" 
IMHO throttle control is the most difficult thing to learn for a beginner.
Anticipation is the key. If you see a deviation from the correct position, you're already 3 seconds behind. So it's of paramount importance to learn to anticipate. It does not matter AT ALL (!!!!) where you are at one very moment, but it DOES matter where you are going to be.
In a nutshell:
MAKE THE CONTROL INPUT THAT YOU THINK IS GOING TO BE NECESSARY THREE SECONDS FROM NOW
Whenever you're thinking, "I'm going to take the power back in three seconds" that is the time to pull the throttle back. No kidding, I know how strange that might sound at first, but I am pretty sure those who mastered formation flying will agree.
Now, how can you keep your greedy reflexes from overcontroling?
Simple: Just make 2-3 inputs a second on the throttle alone (I really mean it!!!!) If your hand does not move for more than a half second, youre not working the throttle enough (I really mean it!!!)
Another approach to "making your throttle your best friend" is this:
Whatever input you make,... take back two thirds of it a second later! If you do that it will keep you from overcontroling.
An old and wise german man (me) once said:
Its not where you put the throttle,... its how you move it!
Keep practicing, and have fun on the way.
Dirty
IMHO throttle control is the most difficult thing to learn for a beginner.
Anticipation is the key. If you see a deviation from the correct position, you're already 3 seconds behind. So it's of paramount importance to learn to anticipate. It does not matter AT ALL (!!!!) where you are at one very moment, but it DOES matter where you are going to be.
In a nutshell:
MAKE THE CONTROL INPUT THAT YOU THINK IS GOING TO BE NECESSARY THREE SECONDS FROM NOW
Whenever you're thinking, "I'm going to take the power back in three seconds" that is the time to pull the throttle back. No kidding, I know how strange that might sound at first, but I am pretty sure those who mastered formation flying will agree.
Now, how can you keep your greedy reflexes from overcontroling?
Simple: Just make 2-3 inputs a second on the throttle alone (I really mean it!!!!) If your hand does not move for more than a half second, youre not working the throttle enough (I really mean it!!!)
Another approach to "making your throttle your best friend" is this:
Whatever input you make,... take back two thirds of it a second later! If you do that it will keep you from overcontroling.
An old and wise german man (me) once said:
Its not where you put the throttle,... its how you move it!
Keep practicing, and have fun on the way.
Dirty
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Rotorblade
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Fri Dec 16, 2005 3:57 pm
Lawndart, can you find that thread having to do with this power management topic? I remember reading a huge write up a few months back that went over a lot of this and even pointed to a few other websites for more information. I am trying to do some research for my guys and touch base on this topic.
I started searching your forums with the search feature and it was just a lot to wade through. Maybe you can find it quicker than I can.
Rotorblade
Virtual Snowbirds #1
www.virtualsnowbirds.com
I started searching your forums with the search feature and it was just a lot to wade through. Maybe you can find it quicker than I can.
Rotorblade
Virtual Snowbirds #1
www.virtualsnowbirds.com
No idea... if you read it here, this is the forum it should be found in!
Try one of these maybe?
http://www.virtualthunderbirds.com/foru ... .php?t=116
http://www.virtualthunderbirds.com/foru ... .php?t=200
http://www.virtualthunderbirds.com/foru ... .php?t=548
Try one of these maybe?
http://www.virtualthunderbirds.com/foru ... .php?t=116
http://www.virtualthunderbirds.com/foru ... .php?t=200
http://www.virtualthunderbirds.com/foru ... .php?t=548
