FSSB Help
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- Posts: 192
- Joined: Fri Dec 16, 2005 3:57 pm
I never sent mine off, I somehow got it to go back to center but that was after taking it all apart, checking everything out, and putting it back together. I have had the same issues exactly as Redeye explained.
It's been a while since I had these issues and some of the problems are starting to return. Just the other night I was in the calibration and the y axis was around 260 and should have been right on 330. I unplugged the cougar, reseated the handle, and plugged it into a different USB port and it went back to center for the time being.
I check my cougar's input before each flight with the Foxy Analyzer and I have seen this problem grow slightly over time.
I am trying to hold of on sending mine in and I fear it is only a matter of time.
It's been a while since I had these issues and some of the problems are starting to return. Just the other night I was in the calibration and the y axis was around 260 and should have been right on 330. I unplugged the cougar, reseated the handle, and plugged it into a different USB port and it went back to center for the time being.
I check my cougar's input before each flight with the Foxy Analyzer and I have seen this problem grow slightly over time.
I am trying to hold of on sending mine in and I fear it is only a matter of time.
- Burner
- Virtual Thunderbird Alumnus
- Posts: 1420
- Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2005 5:08 pm
- Location: New Orleans, LA
Have you tried a full reinstall and recal? Now that you'll have to pay for it you may want to try and fix it yourself.
I would concentrate on either increasing the friction around the calibration screw or remounting it so that the FSSB sits as perfectly flat against the four mounting points as possible. What re-mounting may do for you is change the calibration screw's position and move it into a region that does not have a tendency to drift.
The calibration screw is there to elliminate any forces that are put on the load cell by the mounting of the FSSB itself, so a remounting will give you a new set of forces to be calibrated out. If you go the extra step and use washers to make sure the FSSB sits flat on the bolt holes without having to bend then you'll really get a different set of forces and a radically different calibration screw position.
I would concentrate on either increasing the friction around the calibration screw or remounting it so that the FSSB sits as perfectly flat against the four mounting points as possible. What re-mounting may do for you is change the calibration screw's position and move it into a region that does not have a tendency to drift.
The calibration screw is there to elliminate any forces that are put on the load cell by the mounting of the FSSB itself, so a remounting will give you a new set of forces to be calibrated out. If you go the extra step and use washers to make sure the FSSB sits flat on the bolt holes without having to bend then you'll really get a different set of forces and a radically different calibration screw position.
Straight out of the redneck dictionary: "Jimmy rig it Johnny"!Burner wrote:Have you tried a full reinstall and recal? Now that you'll have to pay for it you may want to try and fix it yourself.
Sounds like a potential electrical problem to me (no ground), which means it could be the stick CB. If you haven't sent it off yet, you could plug the FSSB into your spare and see if it retains center values. Check the ground wire too...
I wouldn't waste too much time though. The faster you ship it off, the sooner you'll have a working unit again.
Red, I did just that when mine was installed in the Cougar base - it took two very thin washers on opposite corners, and the FSSB sat very solid. Now that it is in a custom machined base in the pit it is perfectly flat - maybe that's why I haven't had any problems with mine, even though my settings are maxed.Burner wrote: The calibration screw is there to elliminate any forces that are put on the load cell by the mounting of the FSSB itself, so a remounting will give you a new set of forces to be calibrated out. If you go the extra step and use washers to make sure the FSSB sits flat on the bolt holes without having to bend then you'll really get a different set of forces and a radically different calibration screw position.
Just got another email from Mr Sotes. 40 euro = $65 canadian to repair the Y potenciometer plus the shipping cost.
Thanks everyone for the tips, but the unit was working for over 2 years so I don't think it's the mounting or anything else. I'm sure it's the Y pot and it will have to go back for repairs.
At this point I'm thinking of ordering the FSSB R2 as my main unit and used the repaired R1 as a backup.
Thanks everyone for the tips, but the unit was working for over 2 years so I don't think it's the mounting or anything else. I'm sure it's the Y pot and it will have to go back for repairs.
At this point I'm thinking of ordering the FSSB R2 as my main unit and used the repaired R1 as a backup.
After ordering the R2, Bartolome contacted me via email to offer a repaired R1 unit for 140 eur + 25 shipping. It comes with a full 2 yr warranty.
I took the offer, repaired R1 is on its way.
I will send my broken R1 in for repairs once it arrives. My second unit will become a backup unit for myself and Boss.
I took the offer, repaired R1 is on its way.
I will send my broken R1 in for repairs once it arrives. My second unit will become a backup unit for myself and Boss.
UPS delivered my R1 yesterday and I was out walking the dog. I missed the guy by 3 mins. Now it's stuck in some trailer in their warehouse for the weekend and I can't get it till Monday. It also will cost $31.30 COD after I already paid $39 shipping fees to RSimulator.
I'm dissapointed because I asked them not to send it by courier. Is there something I'm missing... do they not have regular mail?
OK... things are better now.
The (new) repaired R1 comes with a full 2 year warranty and it's just the force sensor round disk. It's missing the metal base that the stick handle screws onto. It is easily removed with 4 screws and re-fitted onto the new R1.
BTW, $31.30 COD = taxes
Time to send in my broken R1 for repairs. It will be a backup unit for Rock and myself.
The (new) repaired R1 comes with a full 2 year warranty and it's just the force sensor round disk. It's missing the metal base that the stick handle screws onto. It is easily removed with 4 screws and re-fitted onto the new R1.
BTW, $31.30 COD = taxes
Time to send in my broken R1 for repairs. It will be a backup unit for Rock and myself.